Thursday, October 9, 2008

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Scene of mighty confluence

PILGRIMAGE The contrast in colours is striking — the green-blue Bhagirati mingling with the muddy brown Alakananda. RUPA GOPAL

Photos: Rupa Gopal

Mighty Himalayan Rivers: At Devprayag, (and below) the confluence of Bhagirati and Alakananda.

The Ganga flows down the Himalayas, forming five major confluences along the way —Vishnuprayag (Alakananda and Dhauli ganga), Nandaprayag, (Alakananda and Nandakini), Karnaprayag (Alakananda and Pindar), Rudraprayag (Alakananda and Mandakini), and lastly, Devprayag.

At about 2,550 ft. above mean sea level is located Devprayag, the holy confluence of the Bhagirati with Alakananda — mighty rivers journeying down the Himalayas, joining to become the Ganga. In keeping with the mystique of the Himalayas, the Bhagirati is a deep green blue, its waters rushing impatiently to join the serene, muddy brown Alakananda.

Contrast in colour

The contrast in colours is striking, with the hill of Devprayag rising above, dotted with small buildings. The temple of Raghunathji is high above, reached on foot by crossing the bridge over the river, from across the highway, and then climbing up narrow lanes.

Said to be over 10,000 years old, the temple overlooks the confluence, or Prayag, from high above, with steps leading down to Brahmakund, where religious austerities are performed in the swirling waters. Vasishtkund is located further away.


A black granite idol of Rama is housed in the main shrine, while Hanuman, Sankaracharya , Garuda and Annapurna have smaller shrines in the compound. Both Rama and Dasaratha had undertaken penance at Devprayag, Rama to atone for the killing of Ravana.

Temple to Bharata

Dasarathshila is located elsewhere in the village, near a tiny rivulet called Shanta, named after the foster daughter of the king. A small ancient temple to Bharata is also found nearby.

The Rama temple walls bear inscriptions not deciphered. A throne-like stone seat is where Rama sat, says temple lore. The original Lakshman jhoola, the bridge across the Ganga, is thought to be here at Devprayag, and not at Rishikesh. Located about 70 km from Rishikesh, Devprayag has beautiful scenery — vistas that have probably remained unchanged over time, a time when gods are said to have walked our blessed land.