Varahur

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Photos: M.Srinath

Much awaited: The uriyadi poles are getting ready at Sri Venkatesa Perumal temple, Varahur.

Come Krishna Jayanti, it is time for Uriyadi at Sri Venkatesa Perumal Temple at Varahur, 30 km from Thanjavur. This year the festival falls on August 23 and Uriyadi Thirunal is being held on the night of August 24 to continue till Monday morning. But the festival itself is already under way.

On Sunday, August 17, an Uriyadi pole — three long strong bamboo poles tied together —was fixed on the ground in front of the temple. Devotees throng to have darshan of the deity decorated in various forms such as Venugopala, Kalinganarthanar, Uriyadi Krishnar and so on.

Varahur is said to be the village where composer Narayana Theerthar arrived after being led by a wild boar. The deity of the temple cured the poet of an acute stomach ache and a grateful Tirtha with the Lord’s blessings composed Sri Krishna Leela Tharangini. Krishna actually danced to the tune, legend goes.

It was Tirtha who started the tradition of Uriyadi and it has continued. On Uriyadi Thirunal, a packet of prasadam is put in a mud pot and hoisted upon the pole. Another pole smeared with oil, called Vazhukkumaram, is fixed near the pole. Contestant should climb the slippery pole to snatch the packet. The event is based on the philosophy that man has to strive hard to attain the grace of God.

On the morning of Uriyadi thirunal, the Utsavar is decorated as Balakrishna holding a pot of butter — Vennaithazhi alankaram — and taken to Karungal mandapam. At midnight, the deity decorated as Yuva Krishna is taken towards the pole to the accompaniment of the nagaswaram and Tharangini bhajans. The idol is placed in a specially erected pandal. A person from Yadav clan of the village, dressed as cowherd strikes the Uri mathalam (package of eatables) to signal the commencement of Uriadithal.

Temples near Badrinath

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Forty-four kms and a travel time of 2 and a half hours before Badrinath, is Joshimutt (6,150 ft. above sea level). Protected by the majestic peaks of Trishul in the south, Kamat in the north, and the holy peaks of Badri in the north-west, Joshimutt thrills the pilgrim with its unique location, colours and antiquity. Reaching it energises one and heightens devotion for the road-weary pilgrim. The gate system along the highway necessitates a halt here, and ahead at Pandukeshwar, to regulate traffic.

Narasimha Badri is located here, the place perhaps originally referred to as Jyotirmutt, where Adi Sankara gained enlightenment. It is one of the four mutts established by him and Adi Sankara wrote his Sri Bhashyam here. A 2,400-year-old kalpavriksha associated with the great spiritual leader stands at Joshimutt.

The Narasimha temple has a saligrama idol installed by Adi Sankara, and a shrine to Vasudeva. Legend states that the left wrist of the idol is getting thinner by the day, and that at the end of Kaliyuga the hand will break off.

This will then trigger off the fall of the mountains, Jaya and Vijaya, near Vishnu Prayag, and block the way to the present Badrinath temple. So the lord will then be worshipped only at Bhavishya Badri, 23 kms from Joshimutt.

The ski resort of Auli, (16 kms away) makes Joshimutt a holiday spot as well, a ropeway and road connecting the scenic spot. Hemkund Sahib and the Valley of Flowers are also accessible from here.

Tiny village

The Kubera one at Panduskeshwar.

Pandukeshwar (6300 ft. above sea level) is 4 kms from Vishnu Prayag, on the road to Badri. It is a tiny little village clinging to the mighty Himalayas.

A steep path down from the road enters the hamlet and goes on and on, till finally one sees the small temple, built in local style. Two shrines house Vishnu in a meditative posture, and Vasudeva with a commanding presence. The temple and the idols are said to have been established by the Pandavas, in memory of their father Pandu, who spent his last years here at Pandukeshwar, worshipping Maha Vishnu. A lingam studded with the nine gems is buried under the idol of Narayana, says the priest.

The Pandavas renounced all worldly attachment here, and handed over Hastinapur to King Parikshit. From here they moved upwards towards Badri, Mana, Alakapuri (the birthplace of the Alakananda) and beyond, ascending a peak to the heavens, the eventful peak being Swargarohini. Ultimately, it was only Yudhishtir who ascended the heavens, in human form.

Hanuman Chatti lies nearby, in the Gandhamadana hills. Bhima and Hanuman had a contest of strength here, with a disguised Hanuman lying across the path of Bhima, challenging him to lift his tail. Bhima then realised it was Hanuman, his brother.

Redolent with legends, Pandukeshwar is further sanctified by being the winter abode of worship, when the Badri temple is closed for six months. The idol of Uddhava is brought down to Pandukeshwar, and worship continues till May, when the idol is ceremoniously carried back to Badri. The only temple to Kubera stands near the main temple, making Pandukeshwar even more unique.

The climb back to the road from the temple is very steep and has to be done rapidly, before the gate opens to allow the traffic. The effort is certainly memorable as visiting Badrinath would be incomplete without seeing these two holy shrines.