Source http://www.hindu.com/mp/2009/02/09/stories/2009020951040500.htm
Memories of winter
| Himalayas Rishad Saam Mehta drives 2,000 km to find bliss in a land covered by snow, snow and more snow |
Nature’s canvas Tani Jubbar Lake
I pulled open the curtains of my room at the Giri Ganga Resort at Kharapathar and was greeted by a winter wonderland. My high-decibel holler of happiness at seeing snowflakes falling must have woken up the entire Pabbar Valley.
We’d driven through the Pabbar Valley the day before and fretted and fumed about the fact that though the temperature was well below the 10 degrees C mark, it didn’t look like winter.
The mountainsides were brown and dull because all the grass and shrubs had been gobbled down by the livestock during their grazing after the rains.
The pines and other flora wore a coat of dust and even the snow-capped peaks that should have been our constant companion from Chakrata to Hatkoti and Kharapathar were hiding behind thick and solid cloud banks.
So, I was pretty peeved because we’d pointed the nose of the new Corolla Altis towards the north in faraway Mumbai and driven over 2,000 km to find some winter. The Altis, with its exciting and enthusiastic engine, was a complete mile-muncher. In fact, we made Ajmer during the first day of driving, which meant packing in 1100 km in a single driving day. But now, seeing the snowflakes fall, all the long hours at the wheel on this journey from the sea to the snow became worth it.
Snowball fight, anyone?
I know that my very vocal outburst of joy woke up the manager of the resort, who jumped out of his bed like a springbok who has sighted a lion.
He was at the reception heavy-eyed, with an aura of slumber still around his head when I raced there with all the enthusiasm and glee of a glutton at a free and unlimited buffet. He was also very grateful of the reception desk between him and me because he could see it from the fanatical look of pleasure on my face that I would have thrown the restraining shackles of courteous behaviour, grabbed and taken him out in the open and forced him to have a snowball fight with me to celebrate the first ice of the season.
I was so happy at the sight of snow. Clumsily staying beyond my clutching distance like a misaligned matador fighting a blundering bovine, he told me that the roads would be iced up and that I should wait till a few buses and cars passed so that the icy surface would be broken and provide some kind of grip to the tyres.
“Right now the car’s tyres will feel like ball bearings on glass” he warned.
The drive to Thanedar
We weren’t in any hurry to leave anyway, and outside the resort, everyday life went on as people trudged to work, some smiling in amusement at our happiness as we clicked photos of the car covered in ice, the snow-laden pine trees and the white hillsides.
The Corolla felt a little nervous as we started off from its overnight parking space because the road all around was covered with glass-like ice. Once we hit the tracks created by other cars, the going was easier.
Yet, gentleness was the order of the day. Momentum was the mantra because any sudden changes to speed or direction could send the car in a slide.
But then, thiswasn’t really my idea of fun behind the wheel. So, we strapped on the snow chains; then, I could show a little audacity on the white-washed roads.
Catching up over soup
From Kharapathar we decided to go to Thanedar because it definitely would have snowed there too as the little village of Thanedar is at quite a height. I also wanted to say hello to my good friend Prakash Thakur who runs a charming little resort there in the midst of apple orchards and snowy mountains.
Thanedar is by far my favourite place in the Himalayas and while we swapped stories and sipped the spicy hot soup that Sharmaji, the cook-cum-manager, had prepared, it continued to snow through the night.
Pretty sight
But we woke up to bright blue skies the next day and promptly headed out to the Tani Jubbar Lake, 8 km from Thanedar.
Though I have been here before, I have never seen it prettier. The lake reflected the bright blue sky and the snow all around. The air was invigorating because it was clean and crispy cold.
The Nag Devta temple looked a picture of piety with snow clinging to its slate roof and icicles beginning to form over its sides. Standing in the snow-covered lawn of the little hotel there, staring out at the icy peaks and drawing solace from a steaming cup of chai, I felt content and happy.
I had found the winter that I had been chasing for over 2000 km.
How to go
To get your fill of the winter or any season in the Himalayas head to Thanedar. For bookings, log on to www.banjaracamps.com
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